Pen & Quill, the newest eatery in the old Chesapeake Restaurant building just north of Baltimore’s Pennsylvania Station, feels like exactly the right restaurant, in the right place, at the right time. It’s sophisticated but casual, modern but rooted in history — all at once.

Pen & Quill’s Charles Street space was empty for years after Chesapeake Restaurant closed; a 2013 incarnation, The Chesapeake, fizzled out after less than a year in business. Then last summer, the Karzais — the family behind several local powerhouse restaurants, including neighbor Tapas Teatro — opened Pen & Quill.

The space is inviting and cool, with a mix of booths and tables anchored by a long bar. The service is well informed, if a little too chatty at times, and the kitchen boasts both technical chops and a creative approach to food.  Read on.